不是维密天使 照样可以穿性感内衣：开云|kaiyun

In the digital age, one way for a brand to make itself relevant is to get social media traction. By that measure, plus-size retailer Lane Bryant Inc. is succeeding.在数码时代，一个品牌要想要取得知名度，在社交媒体上扣人气是个十分好的方法。从这个角度来看，大码女装零售商Lane Bryant公司于是以回头在顺利的路上。Lane Bryant Inc., which sells women’s clothing size 14 to 28, became a hot topic in social media after the company released an ad campaign featuring vamping, slightly-large supermodels in slinky lingerie, a not-so-subtle jab at Victoria’s Secret 2014 ads where ultrathin “angels” wore wings.Lane Bryant公司主营增大码女装，最近该公司公布的一则广告沦为美国社交网络的热门话题。

在这则广告中，一排“微胖界”女模特穿著龙山内衣，热辣出镜，矛头直指内衣品牌“维多利亚的秘密”2014年的广告“天使”。Hashtagged #ImNoAngel, the salvo from Lane Bryant’s CEO and President Linda Heasley aims to revitalize the flagging brand by cashing in on the growing “body-positive” movement.琳达o西斯里是Lane Bryant公司的CEO兼任总裁，她之所以发售这则取名为“我不是天使”的广告，就是为了利用时下正在蓬勃发展的“身材正能量”活动，以提振下滑的品牌形象。In one day, #ImNoAngel garnered 30,000 Facebook and Twitter mentions, 85% of them positive, according to Folke Lemaitre, CEO and founder of Engagor, an analytics firm monitoring social media. Twitter followers were growing 4 percent a day. Activity was 80% women 25 to 44. The terms used most often: “redefining body image,” and “celebrates women.”社交媒体分析公司Engagor创始人兼任CEO福尔克o纳迈特雷回应，在短短一天内，“我不是天使”就在Facebook和Twitter上被提及了3万次，其中85%的评论都是正面的。

该公司在Twitter上的粉丝一天就下跌了4%。80%的对此者是25到44岁的女性，经常出现频率最低的词就是“新的定义了身材形象”和“祝贺女性”。The ad’s four supermodels, wearing the Cacique lingerie line, suggestively whisper lines such as, “I mean honey, have you seen all this?” It aims at Victoria’s Secret’s “Perfect Body” campaign, which sparked petitions opposing the images. #ImNoAngel ads show some small rolls of flesh, and one model’s abdominal scar from ovarian cancer surgery.广告中经常出现的四名超模身着Cacique系列内衣，暗示性地低声讲出“亲爱的，你看到了吗？”。这针对的是“维多利亚的秘密”的“极致身材”广告，后者日后发售就遭不少网民炮击，甚至有人抗议拒绝将其删除。

而“我不是天使”中的超模们人人腰间都折着“游泳圈”，一名模特儿的腹部甚至还有卵巢癌手术留给的疤痕。“Our brand has begun to change the conversation of traditional notions of beauty,” CEO Heasley crowed in a press statement.CEO西斯里在一份媒体声明中骄傲地声称：“我们的品牌早已开始改变人们对美的传统观念。

”CEO of the Columbus, Ohio-based company since 2013, Heasley has brought a few designer “sub-brands” to Lane Bryant, and chic athletic wear. (Lane Bryant is a unit of Ascena Retail group, with 767 stores and 7,900 U.S. employees.) For decades, Lane Bryant was derided as a down-market mall staple selling outdated, stretchy, dowdy coverups. “It’s a new Lane Bryant,” Heasley told industry journal Racked. Previously at the Limited, she added Eloquii, a fast-fashion, runway-inspired line similar to Zara’s, in large sizes.Lane Bryant公司的总部坐落于俄亥俄州哥伦布市。自2013年就职CEO以来，西斯里先后为公司带给了几个“子品牌”和运动女装。（Lane Bryant公司是Ascena Retail集团的子公司，在全美享有767家商店和7900名员工。

）几十年来，仍然有许多人取笑该公司销售的低档老式胸罩。不过西斯里对行业杂志《Racked》回应：“现在我们早已是一家全新的Lane Bryant公司了。”在此前Lane Bryant供职于“维多利亚的秘密”的母公司Limited集团期间，她还发售过一个名为Eloquii的平价女装品牌，亲民的价格与Zara有些类似于，只不过它也是专门针对微胖界的大码产品。

Capitalizing on the the “body-positive”movement is a good move for Lane Bryant, contends Ruth Bernstein, co-founder of YARD advertising agency, whose clients include Henri Bendel and Banana Republic. The campaign, after all, arrives as the the plus-size market is growing. Trendy, new entrants include Forever21, HM, and Wet Seal. Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and Michael Kors license their names to plus-size lines. Yet other big names, including Saks Fifth Avenue, have exited; plus-sizebrand Avenue went bankrupt.广告公司YARD的牵头创始人露丝o伯恩斯坦指出，逃跑“身材正能量”运动的机会展开宣传，是Lane Bryant公司走进的一步好棋。却是如今大码女装的市场正在快速增长。且不说Forever21、HM和Wet Seal等品牌都开始做到大码女装，就连Calvin Klein、拉夫劳伦、Tommy Hilfiger和Michael Kors也开始转入大码女装市场。

其他一些知名品牌，比如Saks Fifth Avenue，则解散了大码女装领域，它的专业大码女装品牌Avenue也宣告破产。The problem is not a lack of large women: 64% of U.S. women are overweight, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention says. Half of U.S. women wear size 14 or larger, and they hold about one-third of women’s overall apparel purchasing power—about $17.5 billion a year, says retail analysts NPD Group. Small niche companies addressing this market have seen sales rise 31% in the past two years, helped by a tidal wave of plus-fashion bloggers — some with branded clothing lines.美国只不过并不缺女胖纸：根据美国疾病掌控与防治中心的数据，64%的美国妇女都有所不同程度的体重微克。零售分析公司NPD集团的数据表明，半数美国女性都穿着14码以上的衣服，她们的服装购买力占到全体美国女性的三分之一，大约为每年175亿美元。

在过去两年里，射击这个小众市场的公司的销售额快速增长了31%。当然这也必不可少一些做到大码女装的网络红人推波助澜，一些网络红人还有自己的大码服装品牌。

Lane Bryant’s CEO has noticed. “I love going on bloggers’ sites,” Heasley told Biz Journal. “They teach me every day how we should be thinking about this.” And perhaps selling like this: curvy blogger Gabbi Gregg’s “fatkinis” – large two-piece suits — went viral in 2013 and 2014 and sold out in an hour.Lane Bryant公司的CEO也注意到了这一点，她对《Biz Journal》回应：“我讨厌看博客网站，她们每天都在教教我应当怎样考虑到这件事。”以美国的博客达人阿方o格雷格为事例（她自己就是个女胖纸），她发售的“肥基尼”（即肥版比基尼）曾在2013和2014年红极一时，下架将近一小时就被抢购一空。

Fatkinis and #ImNoAngel are the latest wave in the body-positive movement, built on decades of feminist researchshowing the harmful effects of media images of rail-thin women. Dove’s landmark “Real Beauty” campaign, begun in 2004, took it mainstream, posing non-professionals in their underwear, eventually getting 65 million YouTube views.“肥基尼”和“我不是天使”只是“身材正能量”运动的最近一次发力。女权主义者几十年来的研究早就指出，媒体大力宣传的那种超瘦的“麻杆型”身材是危害的。

多芬公司2004年发售的“确实的美”广告将身材正能量运动带进了主流，这则广告让非专业模特儿穿著内衣上镜，最后在YouTube上进账了6500万次的点击量。Still, Lane Bryant might have a tougher road. Studies show, for instance, that larger models don’t actually make womenfeel better. And some in the curvy community bemoaned the cat fight aspect of the campaign. “I don’t believe that as plus size women we must be pitted against mainstream ideals to be seen as beautiful,” plus-size fashion blogger Sarah Conley said.不过，放在Lane Bryant公司前面的路或许仍然很差回头。研究表明，大码女装并会令其女性感觉更佳。

有些微胖界人士也对Lane Bryant利与“维多利亚的秘密”勾心斗角表示遗憾。大码女装博主萨拉o康利就回应：“我不指出作为胖女人，我们必需与主流的审美理念不作斗争。”It remains to be seen whether Lane Bryant can parlay this social media buzz into sales. “Consumers are intrigued,” says Engagor’s Lemaitre. “But it will be up to the company to deliver.”Lane Bryant公司能否利用此次社交媒体上的较好反响不断扩大销量，目前还有待仔细观察。

Engagor公司的纳迈特雷指出：“消费者的确被这则广告更有了，但结果还要看该公司能拿走什么产品。

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